banyuwangi_overview.htm

The Regency of Banyuwangi is located at the easternmost end of the Indonesian island of Java, and it is a very strategic area for one who wants to go to Bali. It is surrounded by mountainous and woody areas to the west; by sea to the east and south. Banyuwangi is only separated by Strait of Bali from Bali.

society

Banyuwangi is — as are other Indonesian areas — a heterogeneous area where many ethnic groups are mingled and live together under the same roof. One of the native groups is the Osing community which has a distinctly Hindu culture although they are considered a Javanese sub-ethnic group. They live mainly in the central part of Banyuwangi and they sometimes consider themselves as Majapahit descendants. Other groups are Javanese (living mostly in the south and west), Madurese (mainly in the north and coastal area) and Balinese (scattered but more concentrated in the east). Other smaller groups are Chinese, Buginese, Arabs etc.

The Osings are mostly adherents of abangan Islam, although there are some who follow Hinduism. Elements of Animism can be seen in their religion too. The Osings share a similar culture and spirit with the Balinese, and the Hindus celebrate ceremonies like Nyepi. It is not uncommon to see mosques and puras (Hindu temples) to be built nearby to each other in Banyuwangi. About 2-3,000 of them are Christians, who also mix some Hindu or Muslim beliefs into their religion.

The history of the Osings date back to the end of the 15th century, at the time of the fall of the Majapahit kingdom, and for the sake of resisting the conversion of Islam, many of them fled east to Banyuwangi, Bali and Lombok, and later it was converted to Islam by the Muslim Makassarese in the 16th century. The princes from Majapahit thus established the Blambangan kingdom, which stretched from the Blambangan peninsula right up to the Tengger mountains of Central Java. The Blambangan kingdom held sway for slightly more than two hundred years, before they finally surrendered to the second Mataram kingdom in 1743. Even then, they did not officially convert to Islam until the 19th century, though small communities of Muslims do pre-exist this date. The cause of the Osing's conversion is that, during the 19th century, when Banyuwangi was still unscathed by the Dutch colony, but knowing that by launching an attack on Banyuwangi, they will lose out in the battle as the Hindu principal puputan was a fight-to-death, the Dutch sent Moslem (and Christian) missionaries to tame the fighting spirit. Only then Banyuwangi was captured, a long and ambitious dream toward further occupation on Bali was launched by the Dutch.

Even though the Dutch have converted many of the Osings to Islam (and Christianity), it is not that easy to tame the fighting of many of the Osings who refuse to convert to Islam. Today, a large Hindu population still prevails among the Osings

Culture
For its location along Java–Bali road, Banyuwangi is rich in culture, where Javanese, Madurese, Balinese and other cultures had met. This area has got unique arts, traditions and natures. Besides, Banyuwangi has its own trademark such as :

Gandrung Dance
This is a Banyuwangi-typical dance which performed by a woman and along with simple music like violin, triangle (called kluncing), Gong (or kempul), Kendhang and sometimes with keyboard as result of modern influence. It is performed during night until dawn particularly in parties

Janger or Damarwulan
It is a traditional theatre art which has been developed since the 19th century in Banyuwangi. This theatre is a combination between Balinese, Javanese and local cultures. Balinese influences can be seen in its performers' costumes (which remind to Arja costumes)and instruments, meanwhile Javanese influences is in its "lakon" or stories as well as language in dialogues. It is distinct to Balinese Janger.

Traditional dance

BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO VISIT

Ijen Crater

The volcanic cone of Ijen dominates the landscape at the eastern end of Java. Crater of Ijen is filled by a spectacular turquoise blue lake, its surface streaked in wind-blown patterns of yellow sulphur.
Kawah Ijen is the world's largest highly acidic lake and is the site of a labor-intensive sulfur mining operation in which sulfur-laden baskets are hand-carried from the crater floor.

Many other post-caldera cones and craters are located within the caldera or along its rim. The largest concentration of post-caldera cones forms an E-W-trending zone across the southern side of the caldera. Coffee plantations cover much of the Ijen caldera floor, and tourists are drawn to its waterfalls, hot springs, and dramatic volcanic scenery.

Ijen Crater

To Ijen Crater :

Is a nature wonder that can be reached from Bondowos. The Crater has 5,466 acres wide on the elevation of 2,386 m above sea level. During dry season from April through October the temperature drops to 2 - 18 Centigrade. Down to the crater sulphur mining can be found. Packed to this journey. A plantation tour to Perkebunan Nusantara XII in Jampit can be arrange. You will get a new experience enjoying an arabica coffe plantation tour. A Very fresh air on the elevation of 900 m above sea level will make your tour as unforgettable trip.

Anyone travelling on a clear day across the narrow strait separating East Java and Bali will almost certainly be impressed by the two towering mountain peaks dominating the Javanese horizon. These are the summits of Mt Merapi and the crater rim of Ijen, just two points lying on the edge of a vast caldera, which at its widest point is some 20 km in diameter.

The Ijen plateau lies in the centre of the Ijen Merapi-Maelang Reserve, which extends over much of the mountainous region directly west of Banyuwangi and borders on the Baluran National Park in the north east. As at Bromo, the caldera is best viewed from the air. Fortunately, almost all commercial flights operating between Denpasar and Surabaya, Yogyakarta or Jakarta usually fly, if not directly over, then close by the Ijen plateau, where the seemingly luminous blue/green crater lake forms an unmistakeable landmark. The lake lies at the far eastern end of the plateau and is without doubt among the most impressive of East Java's natural wonders. Despite the long and arduous journey along punishing roads (a four wheel drive vehicle is essential), the trip to Ijen is more than worth the effort and is sure to prove an unforgettable experience for anyone who makes it to the end of the trail.

Kawah (crater) Ijen can be reached from either the east or the west. The latter is the more popular approach, since the climb from the road's end to the edge of the lake is only one and a half hours. The road from Banyuwangi, on the other hand, involves a six to seven hour trek from the village of Licin. The western route starts from Wonosari, a few kilometres outside Bondowoso, the town famous for its bull fights. A narrow road, full of potholes, runs east and up from Wonosari, rapidly deteriorating into bone shaking loose rock and gravel. Seemingly endless hairpin bends ascend into forests of casuarina (cemara) trees, giving way to pine forests and coffee plantations. The temperature drops. At night, near the crater rim, it can fall to about 5 degrees celsius.
The road ends at Jampit, where very basic shelter is available. It is also possible to sleep in the old vulcanology station further up the hill, now used by sulphur collectors, but permission must be obtained in advance.

BALURAN

The Baluran National Park is a natural preservation, located on the Eastern tip of Java. Administratively, this area belongs to Situbondo Regency, East Java. From a technical aspect, the Baluran National Park is managed by the Directorate of National Parks, and Tourist Forestry, of the Department of Forestry.

At the moment, the Baluran National National Park occupies 27,868 hectares, comprising of 23,713 hectares of land, and 4,155 hectares of sea. Compared to other conservation areas on Java, Baluran is the only area that has natural savana deserts. These occupy some 10,000 hectares, or about 40% of the total area. Besides that, the Baluran National Park has the most complete forest ecosystem, i.e. savana deserts, beach forests, seasonal forests, mountain forests, forests that stay green all year long, and mangrove forests. The focus of interest of this tourist area is Mount Baluran, which is now non-active. The walls of fits crater are between 900 to 1,247 metres high, bordering off the caldera that's 600 metres deep.

How to reach Baluran:

Surabaya - Banyuwangi (288 km) : bus
Situbondo - Baluran (60 km) : bus/minibus
Surabaya - Banyuwangi (288 km) : bus/train
Banyuwangi - Baluran (35 km) : bus/minibus
Banyuwangi - Batangan (35 km/ 60 minutes) : four-wheeled vehicles
Situbondo - Batangan (60 km/ 80 minutes) : four-wheeled vehicles
Batangan - Bekol (12 km/ 45 minutes) : four-wheeled vehicles
Bekol - Bama (3 km/ 15 minutes) : four-wheeled vehicles
Bama - Kajang (2 km/ 15 minutes) : boat
Bama - Balanan (5 km/ 45 minutes) : boat
Bama - Lempuyang (10 km/ 120 minutes) : boat
Bama - Bilik (16 km/ 180 minutes) : boat
Karang Tekok - Gatel (3 km/ 15 minutes) : four-wheeled vehicles
Gatel - Bilik (12 km/ 45 minutes) : boat

WATUDODOL

The Watu Dodol Tourist Forest is a quite potential tourist destination in the Banyuwangi Regency of East Java. It is about 14 km from Banyuwangi. This tourist forest is located within the protected forest at block 66B, RPH Selogiri, BKPH Ketapang Ketapang, KPH of North Banyuwangi, at an altitude of 10 to 50 meters about the sea level. Administratively, it is governed as part of the Pasir Putih Village, of the Wongsorejo Sub-District, within the Banyuwangi Regency.

This place is very precious. The combinations of hill, forest and beach make the beautiful scenery. Its beauty is more completed by a giant stone with a plant stands up in the middle of highway to Surabaya. The romantic panorama provides a good place for jogging track, cross country as well as enjoying the beauty of Bali strait in distance.

To the east of this tourist forest, and bordering the beach, a large boulder is standing 3 to 4 meters tall. A tree trunk is proturding from the south side of the boulder. At a glance, it seems that the branches are growing out of the solid rocks. While the larger boulder itself appears to rest on some other rocks. This is the characteristic that marks the Watu Dodol Tourist Forest.

A few meters east of the boulder; there is a platform that resembles a place of worship. At certain days the floor of this platform will be full of flower offerings, even small change.

Across the road, in the west, there is a cement stairways that leads to the mountains. About 10 meters to the right of this footpath is an ancient grave. It is at this ancient grave that visitors often meditate.

The Majapahit Soldiers

According to the local people, and believed up till today, there are many stories that relate to the large boulder and the ancient grave. When Banyuwangi (in the past was called Blambangan), ruled by Minak Jinggo, was attacked by the Majapahit soldiers, many of the Blambangan soldiers fled, some to the north tracing the beaches along the Bali strait.

One of the Blambangan officers who ran off, was carrying supplies in the form of jadah (dodol in Javanese, a sweet sticky rice cake). Because he was so tired, the jadah or dodol was unintentionally left behind on the beach, after resting out on his way to safety. The story goes that a solid standing boulder was formed out of the dodol left by the soldier. Even when the Japanese government widened the road, they did not succeed in blasting the boulder. Even the ship chains used to tumble it over, broke off. Today, the boulder still appears strong, and is even preserved as a tourist destination.

From the ancient grave, if you keep on climbing to the left, you will arrive at a rocky mountain. You can see far out into the Bali Straits. That is why it would not be redundant if the Watu Dodol Tourist Forest is claimed as the ideal place to enjoy the beauty of the straits that lead to the Island of The Gods.

On this mountain there is an observation cave left by the Japanese Soldiers from World War II. It is said that from this cave the Japanese Soldiers could watch freely the traffic of foreign vessels coming in and out of the Bali Strait from the north. Now the cave is hidden by the mountain and is covered up by bushes. From this Japanese cave, if you continue to the south, after about 500 meters you will arrive ata athreeway intersection. If you keep left and descend, you will arrive at a resting place, equipped with a children's palyground and an umbrella shaped permanent building. For relaxation with the family this place does well. The air around is fresh and tha place shaded off by the dense ketapang (k.o. almond) and other trees. And in the south, a spacious parking area is available.

And that's not all. East of Watu Dodol there is an umbrella shaped building that houses the restrooms and lockers for those wanting to change and bathe in the Bali Straits.

Sea Shells

A bit to the north, there is a resting house complete with a seating arrangements. It is located exactly on therock that hangs over the Bali Straits. The natural scenery from here is really fascinating. Further to the north are stretches of coconut plantation. The leave wae with the wind, while there is a lot of sea creatures, in particular sea shells. It is quite infatuating to visit the Watu Dodol Tourist Park. And if you look in the direction of the island of Bali (to the east), the Menjanagan and Tabuhan Islands at the edge of Bali Island are visible. So, when will you be visiting this tourist forest.

Text and Photograph : Bambang Sulaksono
Source : "Watu Dodol Tourist Resort", Travel Club Magazine No. 109/ September 1997 page: 14-15.

USING VILLAGE

Using is an original community in Banyuwangi area, especially in Glagah, Giri and Kabat subdistrict, about 7 km from Banyuwangi. Kemiren village is the miniature of Usingers rustic. The life style of Using people is simple. They still hold on their ancestor's culture, especially in language which has no level degrees like the Javanese, and they are also not willing to leave their birth place to another one.

PLENGKUNG

Plengkung, the pure white sand beach bordered on impenetrable jungle for as far as the eye could see, will give you the feeling of far from the civilized world. Plengkung is known as one of the best surfing beaches in the world, is said to be the paradise of the surfers because of its breathaking scenery and natural beauty. Plengkung usually call Surfer's Heaven, where surging challenges the big sound and famous rolling ocean wave which is 20 feet in height, 2 miles in length, and 5 minutes break in interval. The wave which is one of the best five in the world combine with beautiful sandy beach, cottages, tower and camping ground will be the best choice for a vacation. It is located about 88 km to the southern of Banyuwangi.

The only accommodation for miles around are the simple, elevated jungle huts used by the small community of surfers, who take advantage of the season which lasts from April through to October. Storms generated far out in the Indian Ocean give rise to perfect, kilometer long waves that reach four meters in height; every surfer's dream. The huts are equipped to accommodate about 20 people. You can spend the last hours of daylight exploring the beach and, as the tide receded, the exposed reef revealing rock pools filled with all manner of marine life. Soon you will find that you aren't the only one attracted and are soon joined by a flock of large sea birds, for which the reef is obviously a regular feeding ground. You, for sure will experience spectacular sunset over the bay.

Overland access to Plengkung is difficult and the normal route taken is via Grajagan from where visitors take the last stage of the journey by motorboat.

How to reach Plengkung:

Surabaya - Banyuwangi (288 km) : bus/train
Banyuwangi - Grajagan (52 km) : bus/minibus/car
Grajagan - Plengkung (25 km) : motorboat
Surabaya - Banyuwangi (288 km) : bus/train
Banyuwangi - Trianggulasi (76 km): bus/minibus/car
Trianggulasi - Plengkung (12 km) : walking

SEBLANG

It is a kind of a sacral traditional performance as a village purification that performed in the Bakungan and Olehsari village, about 7 km from Banyuwangi. This special performance picturing the dancer presenting flower to the participant either as a taken of recovery from a certain illness, or as wish finding marriage partner.